Gone is most of the expensive handmade pottery. Absent are the whimsical murals by noted local graffiti and cartoon artist Peelander-Yellow. Missing are the self-consciousness and whiff of exclusivity ...

It's a bit of an understatement to say Paul Qui's name strikes up conflicting sentiments in Austin. His humble demeanor and gastronomic genius made him a local sweetheart far before Top Chef. But the ...